In 2013,rumours circulated that Patek Philippe would put an end to the production for their hugely popular 5960 watch that was the manufactures first in-house automatic chronograph. That was largely true until they officially announced that all precious metal versions of the 5960 annual calendar automatic chronograph, however they would introduce a stainless steel version. As you may have learnt from our previous discussions on record breaking Patek watches, a Patek watch that is made from unconventional case material has the potential to soar in value. This probably won’t be the case with the 5960/1A stainless steel, however you can be sure many punters and fans will be climbing over each other for this one.

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The much sportier 5960/1A

So how is this piece different from the previous 5960 apart from the stainless steel case and bracelet? It is a sportier looking watch overall. This can be attributed to the more informal text for the numbers on the chronograph and the lume certainly adds a touch of “sportiness” to the watch where previously it had a much more formal/dressier appeal. The hands are an oxidised gold with 3 facets to them. The darkness of the hands and the date windows stands out strongly against the lightly coloured dial, this gives an overall beefier feel to the dial. Expect pricing to be around USD$54,800, not a heavy discount from the precious metal versions but certainly a unique and appealing piece.

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Front and rear side of the 5960/1A’s movement

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5960/1A profile

A somewhat surprising release was the 5990/1A Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph. This 40.5mm stainless steel piece adds to the much heralded Gerald Genta design and comes with an all new movement and some handy complications. The new movement is an in-house CH 28-520 C FUS, a bit of a mouthful, but simply put, it’s a 45 hour movement only 6.95mm thick that powers the chronography, date, day/night and travel time hand.

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Balanced or messy dial?

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Patek Philippe’s  Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph

The black brass dial looks much like the 5980/1, however the changes include the two subdials. A circular date dial and a 60 minute chronograph register where the Patek Phillipe name is placed. By doing this, Patek Philippe has balanced the text heavy date dial at the top with the chronograph register. They have then added a “Home” and “Local” indicator on the left and right which we have previously seen on the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A to indicate day and night in your local and home timezones. The home-time hour hand is skeletonised to separate it from the local time hour hand. We personally find the dial to be quite busy on this watch but for many, it’s a watch that is modern, useful, and of the quality that you would expect from Patek Philippe. Hence, no doubt it will draw the attention of many existing Patek fans, and those who don’t yet know that they are fans. The 5990/1A will be priced at USD$57,300.

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Stunning CH 28-520 C FUS movement

Patek_Philippe_Nautilus_Travel_Time_Chronographe_ref_5990_5Blow up diagram of the 5990/1A